Fat Hamburgers Tempt Wispy Models in Harajuku: Tokyo Dining

Tokyo’s fashion epicenter, Harajuku, is where you’d go to buy a garish bag, spot whippet-thin models or goth-clad girls posing for pictures at the Meiji Jingu Shrine. Here, you’d also find some of the city’s best hamburgers. Called “hanbaga,” this American fast-food staple has undergone mutation to meet local taste: patties are often mixed with bread crumbs and other fillers, teriyaki sauce replaces ketchup and compressed-rice stands in for bread. Thankfully, there are chefs in Tokyo that specialize in the classic all-beef patty, freshly baked bread combo that hits my burger sweet spot. They are served in a cluster of eateries tucked in Harajuku’s side alleys, away from Prada, Chanel and other high- street stores. Expect to find jaw-stretching versions of the humble hamburger, teetering on layers of sliced tomato, lettuce, cheese and a hunk of meat. The same eye for detail that helped Japanese craftsmen forge world-beating swords, watches and hatchbacks in decades past is elevating hamburger-making to something of an art form. My first stop was Goro’s Diner -- in an alley a 10-minute stroll from the Harry Winston jewelers at the swank Omotesando Hills mall. On the weekday evening I trekked there, I was surprised to find myself the only customer at the cozy four- table diner known to have queues outside its door. Eagles, Lowenbrau The interior is comfortably downmarket and grimy, with the dimly lit room enlivened by blaring the Eagles and other rock staples and a glowing neon Lowenbrau beer sign. The menu has a wealth of topping options running from gumbo to pineapple, and I zoned in on the Classic Burger for 1,250 yen ($13) to narrow the focus on the all-important meat. My order arrived 10 minutes later, with a handful of wedge- cut fries. Like many gourmet burgers in Tokyo, Goro burgers are nestled in a kind of paper envelope that keeps the grease off your fingers and prevents the stuffed contents spilling out the other side when you bite. The bottom half of golden sesame bun was surprisingly thick, layered with a thick bed of lettuce, onion and tomato slice, followed by the patty, lean bacon, Swiss cheese and pickles. It’s a gorgeous arrangement of color and texture. If only it tasted as good. The first bite revealed the burger’s flaws: the fluffy bun and mound of lettuce drew attention from the meat patty, which was unforgivably overcooked. A few blocks toward the Aoyama neighborhood is J.S. Burgers Cafe. I ordered the joint’s signature Avocado Burger plus cheese (1,230 yen), while my guest chose the Vegetable Burger (900 yen). We sat in the shop’s outdoor terrace, which offered the view of a side of a building and a web of power lines. Gooey Cheese Our orders arrived, mine with its multigrain top swept rakishly to the side, revealing a mound of sweet relish, gooey cheese and fresh avocado slices. The patty, cooked on an angled grill was flavorful, though thin for a premium order. There was little moisture from the beef or the relish, a flaw that could be salvaged only with an ample douse of ketchup and mustard. What stood out were the fries, which were seasoned and very crisp. My companion’s veggie burger looked beautiful: its green- veggie patty topped with edamame beans, pumpkin and a garland of sprouts; but it was oh-so-tasteless, the curse of many meatless pretend burgers. The fried lotus-root chips on the side were a nice touch, but she was still hungry after finishing both. At this point, I was starting to get discouraged with these pretty, yet unsatisfying, sandwiches. Still, I pressed on. The Great Burger By its name alone, it’s clear The Great Burger fancies itself a winner. Occupying a corner on a winding path of fashion boutiques and coffee shops known as Cat Street, the joint is another place that has lines outside the door during lunch hours to prove its popularity. It’s quieter in the evenings. The interior is full of retro magazine advertisements for McDonald’s and Campbell Soup, dry goods and other Americana kitsch that litter TGI Friday’s and its ilk. It’s also full of smoke and has an ashtray on every tabletop. I couldn’t resist the Gorgonzola Burger, eager to see how the funky blue cheese would meld with the griddled-beef patty. Almost as soon as the burger arrived, its shiny, dark-brown sesame bun began sliding off the meat, conveyed by an oozing mass of cheese. The sight of this alone made my blood pressure spike. The gorgonzola played nicely against the juicy burger, which was again cooked too well through for my liking. The greasy, peppery fries were excellent. Most Expensive ZipZap, the final stop in my burger quest, offered the biggest and most expensive burger. Located just a couple blocks from The Great Burger, it has ample outdoor seating and an interior of muted lighting and light jazz. The burger was a 225-gram, 2,100 yen affair. I ordered mine with Monterey Jack cheese, while my companion chose an avocado topping. The whopper was served with a lone, home-made pickle. It came topped with a home-made tomato sauce -- a tangy, less salty version of the supermarket variety -- and tartar dressing. No condiment tray accompanied the burger because the customer is expected to trust the toppings chosen by the chef. This isn’t: “Have it your way;” more like: “Have it the way it is on the menu, or risk dashing the social order.” And truth be told, the chef got it right. As my companion said, the beef “wasn’t ground to oblivion” -- the kernels of minced Wagyu steak were still juicy; its ample thickness produced an excellent charred surface and yummy pink middle. Be warned, though, that ZipZap is frequently closed during its stated operating hours. On other visits, it was shut for a private function and shuttered for the filming of a TV show. Its erratic hours are only disclosed in Japanese on the Web site’s blog, so check before you go. If you are turned away, there are plenty of burger choices nearby, or you can take a cue from the models, and pout hungrily. The Questions Cost? 1,000 yen - 2,100 yen Sound level? Quiet, except for Goro’s. Date place? Yes for ZipZap. Yes for the others too, if you don’t mind looking like a cheapskate. Inside tip? Ask for the homemade buns at The Great Burger. They run out fast. Special feature? Fresh pancakes at J.S. Burger Cafe Private rooms? No. Will I be back? Yes. Rating? Goro’s *, J.S. Burgers *, The Great Burger **, ZipZap *** *T What the Stars Mean **** Incomparable food, service, ambience. *** First-class of its kind. ** Good, reliable. * Fair. (No stars) Poor. *T

Fat Hamburgers Tempt Wispy Models in Harajuku: Tokyo Dining

Tokyo’s fashion epicenter, Harajuku, is where you’d go to buy a garish bag, spot whippet-thin models or goth-clad girls posing for pictures at the Meiji Jingu Shrine. Here, you’d also find some of the city’s best hamburgers. Called “hanbaga,” this American fast-food staple has undergone mutation to meet local taste: patties are often mixed with bread crumbs and other fillers, teriyaki sauce replaces ketchup and compressed-rice stands in for bread. Thankfully, there are chefs in Tokyo that specialize in the classic all-beef patty, freshly baked bread combo that hits my burger sweet spot. They are served in a cluster of eateries tucked in Harajuku’s side alleys, away from Prada, Chanel and other high- street stores. Expect to find jaw-stretching versions of the humble hamburger, teetering on layers of sliced tomato, lettuce, cheese and a hunk of meat. The same eye for detail that helped Japanese craftsmen forge world-beating swords, watches and hatchbacks in decades past is elevating hamburger-making to something of an art form. My first stop was Goro’s Diner -- in an alley a 10-minute stroll from the Harry Winston jewelers at the swank Omotesando Hills mall. On the weekday evening I trekked there, I was surprised to find myself the only customer at the cozy four- table diner known to have queues outside its door. Eagles, Lowenbrau The interior is comfortably downmarket and grimy, with the dimly lit room enlivened by blaring the Eagles and other rock staples and a glowing neon Lowenbrau beer sign. The menu has a wealth of topping options running from gumbo to pineapple, and I zoned in on the Classic Burger for 1,250 yen ($13) to narrow the focus on the all-important meat. My order arrived 10 minutes later, with a handful of wedge- cut fries. Like many gourmet burgers in Tokyo, Goro burgers are nestled in a kind of paper envelope that keeps the grease off your fingers and prevents the stuffed contents spilling out the other side when you bite. The bottom half of golden sesame bun was surprisingly thick, layered with a thick bed of lettuce, onion and tomato slice, followed by the patty, lean bacon, Swiss cheese and pickles. It’s a gorgeous arrangement of color and texture. If only it tasted as good. The first bite revealed the burger’s flaws: the fluffy bun and mound of lettuce drew attention from the meat patty, which was unforgivably overcooked. A few blocks toward the Aoyama neighborhood is J.S. Burgers Cafe. I ordered the joint’s signature Avocado Burger plus cheese (1,230 yen), while my guest chose the Vegetable Burger (900 yen). We sat in the shop’s outdoor terrace, which offered the view of a side of a building and a web of power lines. Gooey Cheese Our orders arrived, mine with its multigrain top swept rakishly to the side, revealing a mound of sweet relish, gooey cheese and fresh avocado slices. The patty, cooked on an angled grill was flavorful, though thin for a premium order. There was little moisture from the beef or the relish, a flaw that could be salvaged only with an ample douse of ketchup and mustard. What stood out were the fries, which were seasoned and very crisp. My companion’s veggie burger looked beautiful: its green- veggie patty topped with edamame beans, pumpkin and a garland of sprouts; but it was oh-so-tasteless, the curse of many meatless pretend burgers. The fried lotus-root chips on the side were a nice touch, but she was still hungry after finishing both. At this point, I was starting to get discouraged with these pretty, yet unsatisfying, sandwiches. Still, I pressed on. The Great Burger By its name alone, it’s clear The Great Burger fancies itself a winner. Occupying a corner on a winding path of fashion boutiques and coffee shops known as Cat Street, the joint is another place that has lines outside the door during lunch hours to prove its popularity. It’s quieter in the evenings. The interior is full of retro magazine advertisements for McDonald’s and Campbell Soup, dry goods and other Americana kitsch that litter TGI Friday’s and its ilk. It’s also full of smoke and has an ashtray on every tabletop. I couldn’t resist the Gorgonzola Burger, eager to see how the funky blue cheese would meld with the griddled-beef patty. Almost as soon as the burger arrived, its shiny, dark-brown sesame bun began sliding off the meat, conveyed by an oozing mass of cheese. The sight of this alone made my blood pressure spike. The gorgonzola played nicely against the juicy burger, which was again cooked too well through for my liking. The greasy, peppery fries were excellent. Most Expensive ZipZap, the final stop in my burger quest, offered the biggest and most expensive burger. Located just a couple blocks from The Great Burger, it has ample outdoor seating and an interior of muted lighting and light jazz. The burger was a 225-gram, 2,100 yen affair. I ordered mine with Monterey Jack cheese, while my companion chose an avocado topping. The whopper was served with a lone, home-made pickle. It came topped with a home-made tomato sauce -- a tangy, less salty version of the supermarket variety -- and tartar dressing. No condiment tray accompanied the burger because the customer is expected to trust the toppings chosen by the chef. This isn’t: “Have it your way;” more like: “Have it the way it is on the menu, or risk dashing the social order.” And truth be told, the chef got it right. As my companion said, the beef “wasn’t ground to oblivion” -- the kernels of minced Wagyu steak were still juicy; its ample thickness produced an excellent charred surface and yummy pink middle. Be warned, though, that ZipZap is frequently closed during its stated operating hours. On other visits, it was shut for a private function and shuttered for the filming of a TV show. Its erratic hours are only disclosed in Japanese on the Web site’s blog, so check before you go. If you are turned away, there are plenty of burger choices nearby, or you can take a cue from the models, and pout hungrily. The Bloomberg Questions Cost? 1,000 yen - 2,100 yen Sound level? Quiet, except for Goro’s. Date place? Yes for ZipZap. Yes for the others too, if you don’t mind looking like a cheapskate. Inside tip? Ask for the homemade buns at The Great Burger. They run out fast. Special feature? Fresh pancakes at J.S. Burger Cafe Private rooms? No. Will I be back? Yes. Rating? Goro’s *, J.S. Burgers *, The Great Burger **, ZipZap ***

Taste Asia

I was surprised that Taste Asia located at SM Mall of Asia does not serve service or free water. This is not a good service for me. The reason is that a nearby call center agents drinks water and uses utensils from them but do not buy any food. So they decided to remove the free water. This should is wrong since the paying customer should never be affected. To Taste Asia Management you suck.

Best-kept secrets in panic buying

SPEAKING of holiday rush, nothing beats a trip to bazaars to complete your Christmas food shopping. To make your life easier in the already stress-filled buying season, we are sharing with you our own last-minute food finds to add to your holiday gift-giving list. Check them out. CROQUEMBOUCHE Wicked cream puffs delicately arranged like a Christmas Tree for your holiday dining centerpiece. This confection, under a blanket of glossy caramel, is a traditional French wedding cake. (Pasteleria Mallorca, P1,050/small and P1,380/large. Order two days in advance. Call 3732789/90) SABLÉ Here are luxurious French goodies that will whisk you off to Paris. Fabulously soft, tender and crumbly like the famous French butter cookies that will simply melt delectably on your tongue. Make room for Chocolate Au Lait, Diamant Vanille, Lace Crisp, Matcha, Parmesan Sablé and Parmesan Sticks. (Kitchen’s Best Home Patisserie by Roselyn, Martina and Berna Tiangco. P200/tube for each variety. Call 3818518, 8433847 and 09178966248. Also available at Baker’s Dozen Bazaar, Rockwell, Makati City; Unit 5B, Bldg. B, Karrivin Plaza, 2316 Pasong Tamo Ext., Magallanes, Makati.) HEAVENLY POLVORON For the first time, Pinoy’s favorite polvoron is brought to a new level of taste, shape and flavor with these gourmet polvorons. They combine the classic Filipino sweet polvoron with foreign fruit flavors. Each piece is made with only the most carefully chosen ingredients, from handpicked rose petals to imported fruits. Flavors include kiwi, lavender, rose and cranberry. (Available at Postres del Cielo. P250 for a box of 12. Call Chinie Canivel at 635-4734 and 09188118115. Also available at Salcedo Weekend Market and Legaspi Sunday Market.) CHINESE-STYLE LEG HAM In the tradition of fine Chinese hams, this leg ham is made only from the finest of meats and cured carefully with special herbs and spices. This ham with its golden brown glazing will surely be a feast for the senses. (Josefina’s Ham by Jolly Boy Best Foods. P550/kilo. Available in three kilos and up. Call Josie Sioson at 7402024, 4140109 and 7434238.) ENSAYMADA A 150-year-old recipe made from pure butter and queso de bola—perfect for holiday afternoon tea. P260/piece. (Pasteleria Mallorca was founded by the late Pilar Reyes-Gonzalez, mother of noted chef Gene Gonzalez. It is now being managed by the Gonzalez siblings: Augusto, Adolfo and Rosario. Call 3732789/90. Located at 18 Scout Fuentebella, Tomas Morato St., Quezon City.) TRUFFLES Every time you crave for chocolate, think truffles. Luscious and intensely rich, these special hand-rolled truffles truly melt in your mouth with decadent ease and luxurious sweetness. They’re made from Swiss, French and Belgian chocolates. Currently available in dark, white, white and dark, and macha milk variants. The goodies are specially packed in food-grade paper, placed in a chocolate-brown box, and sealed with the prettiest Risa sleeve. (Risa Chocolates by Pam Lim. P550 for a box of 12. It can also be made into 20 smaller bites. Call 0918-9424573 or e-mail risachocolates@yahoo.com.) EMPANADA The crisp and buttery texture of the empanada allows it to slide almost imperceptibly down your throat. Chunks of creamy chicken and ham make it more delectable and filling. Choices include Pastel de Pollo, Jamon y Queso, Callos a la Madrilena, Carne Norte and Tuna. (San Lo’s Famous Empanada and Tortas by Ana Anacta-Sun. P390 for a box of six for each flavor. Call 8442853 and 0915-9042631. Available at Baker’s Dozen Bazaar, Rockwell, Makati City; and Unit 5B, Bldg. B, Karrivin Plaza, 2316 Pasong Tamo Ext., Magallanes, Makati; and Petron Station Dasmariñas Village, Makati City.) ALMOND BRITTLE Surprise your palate with these seriously addictive slivers of rich buttery almond toffee coated in a generous layer of rich chocolate and sprinkled with sliced almonds. Truly a gift everyone would love to receive, including you. (Kitchen’s Best Home Patisserie. P250 for 200-gram brittle packaged in a gold jar. Call 3818518, 8433847 and 0917-8966248. Also available at Baker’s Dozen Bazaar, Rockwell, Makati City; and Unit 5B, Bldg. B, Karrivin Plaza, 2316 Pasong Tamo Ext., Magallanes, Makati.) BLISSFUL BROWNIES Cap off your holiday feast with these tempting brownies, starting off with Cream Cheese Brownies (P300/box of 20), moist brownie base with cheesecake topping; and Marshmallow Brownies (P230/box of 20), dark chocolate brownies bedecked with colorful and fluffy layer of marshmallows and drizzled with more chocolate. Homemade Treats by Ditas Dizon. Call 3622783 and 0917-8465399.) ROCKAFELLA Utterly rich, crispy, crunchy and yet creamy, these whimsical rochees are made with liqueur-tinged almond slivers coated in Swiss, French or Belgian chocolate. A sprinkling of sunny citrus bits will magically melt all resistance. (Risa Chocolate by Pam Lim. P550 for a box of 12. Call 0918-9424573. Check her out at Santa’s Christmas Bazaar at La Vista, La Vista Clubhouse, Quezon City, on Dec. 13-14, 9 a.m.-7 p.m.; and at Rockwell Tent, Makati, on Dec. 22-23, 10 a.m.- 11 p.m.) TORTA Traditionally served only during fiestas and special occasions, torta is Samar’s native butter cake. It’s sweet, flavorful and very filling, ideal for holiday merienda. It comes with a queso de bola variant. (San Lo’s Famous Empanada and Tortas. P600 for a box of four, original flavor. P720 for a box of four, queso de bola. Call Analiza Anacta-Sun at 8442853 and 0915-9042631. Available at Baker’s Dozen Bazaar, Rockwell, Makati City; Unit 5B, Bldg. B, Karrivin Plaza, 2316 Pasong Tamo Ext., Magallanes, Makati; and Petron Station Dasmariñas Village, Makati City.) TARTA MADRID A frozen confection of flaky puff pastry and custard cream. A real showstopper! (Pasteleria Mallorca. P780/small and P995/big. Order two days in advance. Call 3732789/90.) MOCHI BALLS Who does not love these sweet glutinous rice balls stuffed with your favorite milk or dark Belgian chocolates, white chocolate with walnuts or chocolate peanut butter? These chocolate truffle-filled mochi balls come in elegant mahogany packaging with gold stamping. (Dezato Foods. P385 per box of 12. Also available bite-size mochi balls for P195/dozen. Call Maria and Ingrid Gorre at 7271229, 3879484 and 0920-9249155.)